Sunday, March 7, 2010

Me and Chopin

Chopin and I have an unusual relationship. He is big on the Piano and I´m not exactly musical. It would be his 200th birthday this year if he had a healthier lifestyle and I´m turning 30. Two big milestones.

He has also been avoiding me on our travels. We arrive in Gdansk, concerts evey other day except when we are there. Poznan, Wroclaw, Katowice, Krakow, Berlin and Vienna to boot. I got the feeling he doesn´t like me.

We are both half Polish living in foreign lands so we are not completely unalike. But all was forgiven when I found out at a music museum here that this great composer was rather glad to leave Vienna behind him. Tell me about it.

A defense...

while D is out of the room :)

As far as eating ´fast food´ goes...well, this baby has a lot to answer for...no seriously...sometimes fries are what I need! But mostly a desire for something approximating less wait time and more bland food has led to us eating maccas etc. Might I add, only 3 times in 7 weeks.

Sprite? What can I say...it´s cheaper than water in Europe...

Football games? Dean can talk he´s been to the opera and symphony! It´s purely to study the cultural phenomenon of how large crowds act in a charged environment. You might like to call it my anthropological bent...

Draw what conclusions you like from these observations of my husband as to the sex of our baby. In 3 months we´ll find out!

Biting Wind

It nibbled my chin.

It chewed on my nose.

And it really gobbled down my ears.

Then, it turned into snow. A last hurrah in Europe...everything pretty and white once more before we fly out!

Saturday, March 6, 2010

Wiending Down

Our time away is coming to an end. We are both a little tired and are quite happy we will soon be home. We are currently in Vienna or Wien as it is known by the locals, except on touristic merchandising. Yes, "touristic" is a common word in "International English."

Today we saw some of the sights before heading to Prater which is essentially an open fun park (a bit like Luna Park minus the face and whinging residents). We went on the old Ferris Wheel and I figured out why most things like roller coasters were closed when I nearly lost my hands to frost bite on a Go-Kart. It was a bit of fun.

Instead of following some dodgy looking bloke dressed as Mozart to an average yet expensive (even for Wien) classical music performance, we caught a movie. We saw Invictus in this old cinnema which was built before the invention of heating. It was nice to do something relaxed.

Tomorrow we might get a little more culture in, maybe another movie and definately an over priced coffee haus.

We went to one previously frequented by Trotsky and Lenin proving once and for all these revolutionaries were Bourgeois imposters. I've also been telling Thora how evil the Hapsburgs were and blaming Austria for two World Wars.

Anyway, we will see you soon. Stay tuned for the Inaugral T and D travel 10 Touristic awards. Who will win the prestigious "Golden used bus ticket"?

Dean

Friday, March 5, 2010

Hungarian Idiosyncracies

"I don't know anything" woman in Tourism office

Asking where the Ferry left from to be shown an inland railway station.

It's rude to chink beer glasses because the Austrians and Russians did it when dividing up the country.

The Holy right hand of Hungarys patron saint is on display and can be lit up for 200 Florets.

Allowing derelict buildings awaiting development to be used as really cool pubs.

The language is not Indo-Aryan meaning the last time Germanic/Latin/Hellenic/Slavic/Baltic etc... speakers spoke the same language was Babel.

Hazy Grey

The deal: Dean writes about the opera, I write about the night in an east berlin dive, hangover from the days of the wall.

Yes friends, last Friday night found us in a seedy little pub, on the invitation of our erstwhile tour guide Terry, a british expat who has been in berlin for about 50 years. Or something like it. Anyway, it was the sort of night out that you can´t buy or read about! And in the sort of place that you would waltz by, even if you had deigned to look in the window!

There was melamine. A lot of it. There was a long bar and a dark corner for darts. The only concession to modernism was a tv screen, set up in the corner for viewing sport. Which we duly viewed - a football match.

Terry sat by me, occasionally patting my hand, and assuring me (with more regularity as the night wore on) that I was in the nicest pub in Berlin, with the nicest people in Berlin. Was I having an interesting night? Yes Terry...now I know where the little red veins lining his face come from...He had a routine which the bartender knew downpat. A big glass of water, a cup of tea...then into the beer. (´cheapest beer in Berlin´)

When we arrived there was the requisite unemployed sad man at the bar, who engaged Dean in conversation for some time. Then gradually the lads (all over 35) began pouring in, Ecky and Gunner and Enrico of the spectacular mullet and large gut. The cloud above our head lengthened and I learnt a thing or two about German drinking culture.

1. The bartender must know when you have finished your drink and bring you a new one. It is rude to draw attention to it.
2. In order to greet people you can just knock on the table, so as to avoid shaking everyones hand.
3. beer and cigarettes.
4. more beer.

And so we watched football, in a fog, and we were welcomed by the nicest people in Berlin. We ate sausages with mustard (Terry´s favourites you know). We chinked glasses and grinned inanely.

We burst out of the fog sometime after 11, having spent about 4 hours in our timewarp. So glad the wall came down...and so glad that non smoking rule now exists in all but a few pockets.

Operatic Synopsis

Ahh Budapest, and how would a Rugby League loving barbarian such as myself spend an enjoyable evening?... A night out at the Opera of course.

We went to see half of Turandot (more information on that later). The location was the Hungarian State Opera which is a most beautiful building, ornately decorated -enough to make the Austrian Hapsburgs (the villians in Hungary) envious. Turandot is an Opera by Puccini. It includes the song made famous by Paul Potts on You Tube following his debut on "Britains Got Talent" and also covered by some bloke called Pavarotti.

The story of Turandot is set in China and follows the common theme I´ve noticed in some modern Chinese films of: "you rebel and you die!" Turandot is a homicidal princess who doesn't show a lot of expression and likes to have potential suitors beheaded. Because she is beautiful, an unknown Tartar prince falls in love, ignoring the fact that she is a complete cow, with murderous tendencies. He answers her 3 riddles thus not getting the chop himself.
Turandot is then given a task as a get out clause where she has a slave girl who truely loved the prince tortured until the poor girl commits suicide and in the process of dying, reveals her love. Turandot then finds out the Prince is a Tartar (the people who killed one of her ancestors) and then sings for about half an hour while dithering on what to do. In the end, she and the Prince get married suprise suprise. This was then followed by hours of rapturous applause worthy of a Grand Final victory. And a lot of bowing, and more bowing and so on.

The reason we saw half of Turandot is that we bought dirt cheap tickets with obstructed view. This I decided was a joke on part of the Upper class on the rising Bourgeois who having risen in rank, were able to elevate themselves to the upper tiers away from the salt of the earth with a good view in the stocks below. Nice to be elevated but a bit pointless in not being able to see the show. What was the architecht thinking? It might just be me, but if I were to design a theatre, sight lines would be a major consideration.

Well I hope you are all now a little more culturally enlightened.

Dean (no, really it's not Thora)

P.S Our evening of culture was bookended with Burger King and a trip to a bar housed in a derelict building awaiting demolition.

Monday, March 1, 2010

Berlin

To much to do and not enough time. Budapest in the morning.

What did we pack into 4 days:
1 football game
1 day long walking tour
1 Classical concert
2 Palaces
A day trip to Potsdam
Lunch in Spandau
A visit to the Berlin bears of the world.
1 dingy old East Berlin pub
The chocolate shop
Bought a pair of Birkenstocks
And I picked up a pretty good knowledge of the local transport system.

Would happily spend time in this city any day of the week.
With the exception of watching Hertha play, which is painful duty.

two minutes

got 2 mins left. what can i tell you all?

totally loved the romantic german paintings at the old national gallery today.

going to budapest tomorrow.

looking forward to vegi on toast.

hmmmm, ciao!

Friday, February 26, 2010

Unknown Super Powers

I didn't know it myself, but it turns out that I can speak more then one language. Italian and German to be precise. This is rather impressive as my Italian education comes from menu's and one hour a week for 3 months when I was in year 2. The German comes from self taught Cd Lessons along with war books and films.

Unfortunately this new found super power only occurs while shopping for shoes with Thora. The colour of leather, babies, immigration, cashier's grandchildren, you name it, I've conversed about it.

We will need a new house to store Thora's shoes if this trend continues.

Thursday, February 25, 2010

The Industrious Wonders

We have just finished our time with family in Katowice. This was a great time for them and for Thora and me. We went on a trip with them to nearby Krakow, 80km away and about a 16hour train trip (divide that exaggeration by 8). We even showed them a thing or two there. We also spent two days in the mountains where I got to catch up with my Great Uncle George and I got to get a bit of snowboarding in.

It was nice to slow things down a bit from our hectic traveling. Katowice might not be high or even low for that matter on any list of tourist places to visit, but we certainly enjoyed our time there.

Some Rather Shocking News.

What is happening to Thora?

Firstly she looks longingly at Burger King in Istanbul before greedily scoffing down her burger and fries.

Secondly we get to Turin, a city famous for its fashion and culture and we see Thora Marsh head to McDonalds for a cheeseburger!

The third occurance of Thora doing something she would normally frown upon back home happened in Gdansk. Thora waited out the front of a shopping Center before opening, eagerly desiring to enter.

She has knocked over chop sticks in a Berlin restaurant and has a desire for Sprite.

She has also taken to watching sport at night with the Winter Olympic being on and has been spotted going to football games.

I don't know what it is, you be the Judge.

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

bookends

ON a cloudy grey morning we boarded the bus to Dresden. Squished in our seats, with baggage piled around us I gazed out the window. And saw a strange sight.

A man dressed in a blazer and reddish silk crevat running towards us. He had a large white case on his back that bobbed up and down and would have looked even more incongruos, except for the fact that is was a hard cello case. Well, thats highbrow enough for a crevat right?

Anyway, he boarded our bus to Dresden with the cello in tow. It bruised it's way up the aisle until he deposited it on a seat near us. Whereupon it promptly slid to the floor - we seemed to evince more concern than crevat man did! He conversed with a pretty lady briefly, then sat down. We all dozed our way along the autobahn.

Arriving in Dresden, I was curious to see where he would go...but alas, crevat man escaped quickly. We went on our way to our hostel, and once divested of our goods, we went out for an adventure. Happening upon a church we decided to look in (this is what one does in Europe after all!)

We saw a notice for a Sunday afternoon concert in the church, and decided to attend. Such freedom on holidays :) There followed a comic routine of enquiring about the concert and trying to buy a ticket. All hampered by the fact that I was asking in German for a ticket for the concert that started at "drei uhr" and the attendant was giving me strange looks. In Germany, they do 24 hour time....oops. "funfzehn hur"...

We then began to notice all the grey heads around us. D began to be afraid - what on earth were we getting ourselves into? Something run by a sort of Ladies Auxiliary? Anyway, tickets purchased, we surveyed the sign once more and I noticed that we would be treated to a cello and piano rectial. hmmmm.

Taking our seats amongst the grey heads, we discussed whether crevat man could have come from Berlin to play in the concert. He had. And his name was Konstantin. It was a bit strange seeing him on stage. The cello was none the worse for it's bumps. The concert was relaxing. Oh, and the pianist was the pretty lady from the bus!

They had such distinctive styles these two. Crevat man had curly bouncy hair that flew about as he played with vim and vigour. Pretty lady had a severe bob cut, with sleek shiny hair. She played with force and concentrated on the music with intensity. She did not move very much...her fingers just ran up and down the keys. Crevat man jerked about like one of those dashboard cats. But the music was lovely, and overcame my wanderings about this strange classical pairing.

There is more though. Leaving the concert, we thought our encounters with crevat man were over. After exploring the old town for a few hours we headed back to the groovy new town of Dresden for dinner...and crossing the road in front of us was a familiar bobbing shape. A hard white cello case!

Seeing the World Through Orange Coloured Glasses

It turns the green of pine trees into this amazing colour which contrasts with the bleak grey of the bare leafless trees. It also brings sunset forward by a few hours, with the sky turning a hazy orange.

I only know because my snowboarding goggles are this colour.

Dean

Monday, February 22, 2010

Being Together

How great it is to have a companion.

Dean and I have spent 5 weeks holidaying together. Time has been fluid, sometimes flowing slowly and other times speeding along. But all the time on this holiday has been companionable. What a joy, what a blessing from our God.

We have not needed to have long intense conversations. Neither have we needed to look awkwardly in another direction as we faced each other on a long train trip. Somtimes we have had long intense conversations. At other times we have opted for doing seperate activities. We have learnt more about one another, for sure. (in irritation and in happiness) We have also been confirmed in what we knew. What we knew 3 years ago when we were married, and have known for 3 years of marriage. And what we hope to continue in!

It is good to have a companion. And we make good companions.

Sunday, February 21, 2010

Here Comes the Sun

As I look out the window, I see the sun shining on the freshly painted communist era apartment blocks. Today our plans are to cook a lunch for my Polish family. Thora is also making a Pavlova without kiwi fruit and a few other exotic antipodian ingredients. While we look forward to this day, the suns emergence makes me ask the question: where were you yesterday? Yesterday we were in Krakow which is one of the worlds most beautiful cities. It was grey, a little misty and the weather switched between rain and micro hail. It was a nice day though as we went with some of my family. We walked around and checked out a cool English bookstore/Cafe that we visited on our last journey, had lunch in a cool under ground Ukranian resteraunt, not to mention the main sites of the Wawel castle and old town square (scaffolding again).

It's definately warming up a bit and you often see a waterfall of ice and snow come crashing down to the ground after being dislodged from a roof. Shhhhh BOOUggrrhhhhh!

We hear Deutsch Bahn is coming to Poland. This is good news as our PKP Krakow to Katowice Express train service averaged a whopping 40km an hour over the 80km distance, taking about 2 hours. You should witness their luxury toilets.

We go to the Mountains tomorrow. Hopefully it buckets down with snow there tonight and the sun follows us there tomorrow.

Dean.

Friday, February 19, 2010

Questions

1. If DaVinci was such a genius, why did he choose to work with materials that started to crumble within weeks of the completion of his masterpiece?

2. If Germans are so efficent, why can't I buy T-mobile Austria phone credit at the T-mobile store in Berlin?

3. How many steps does it take to order a meal in Italy?

4. Why do Europeans opt for square pillows?

5. Why do former Socialist states charge you to use the toilet? Is this an expression of capitalist freedom?

6. What do Polish rail conductors think when they look at our Polish eurail passes? (They always look a bit lost)

7. How does a 10m x 20m painting go missing for over a hundred years?

8. Why does Baby M kick at meal times?

9. What is it that makes us look like we are looking for a toilet?

10. Why would you have signs only in Italian in an "American Bookstore" only selling English books?

11. Why does a command in German translate to a polite request in French and an option in English?

12. Where did Augustus the Strong get all his money from?

13. Why would you translate into English information about Egyptian artefacts but not those of your own national story which you might want to tell?

14. Why are things closed on the day we go to visit and why is it always a one off random day?

15. Why is part time Polish resident Nigel Kennedy touring Australia right now!?

16. Why do I have to go back to work?

17. Why are all my clothes olive green or navy blue?

18. Will anyone write back with answers?

The Leprosy of Unreality

I read this line recently, in a book I enjoyed so much. The language was dense...but there were gems!

Who wrote the line which included these words? Anyone know?

I think it's fabulous, it captures so much the sense of ridiculousness that people shroud themselves in.

more preserves

Listening to Szymon haltingly explain the LOTR game to Dean, and wanting to tell him everything - just like D does when he explains a game!

Watching and listening to 4 Italian ladies in white coats discussing sorbolene, and whether or not they had a similar product, as they proffered tubs and tubes of various creams to test.

Feeling the pull of news from home and realising once more that even from across the seas the relationships you are in define and mould you.

Discovering a gnome in the market square, stopping to take a photo and having a smiley little old man lead us to where there were 3 more.

Thinking about where home is, and who/what defines home, as I lie in an uncomfortable hostel bed while some Africans are having a conversation in french, english and deutsch outside the door

A little voice

Today we arrived in Katowice, the town where Dean's Polish relatives live. Piotr and Szymon (14) picked us up from the station, and we drove home to see Gabrysia and Pawel (6). Later we will see Basia, Macek and Macius, and next week George and Hilda.

We've been eating delicious food all day, and looking at photos. So nice to have a slow day, in friendly company.

At one point, in the midst of our slide show (which our friends endured with love :) a little voice piped up. A little voice that had been mostly silent, for he knows little english. Although basketball words are in high rotation on his vocabulary, for he loves NBA. Anyway, I digress, the little voice pipes up and says

"Dean, do you like ACDC?"

hehehe!

Thursday, February 18, 2010

Gnome Hunting

Wrocław is a city I simultaneously know everything and nothing about. I've read a large book on the city yet couldn't point out any great landmarks except for the fact I know that the city is on the Odra with some islands and churches. One suprising aspect was the inclusion of small bronze gnomes all over the city. There are a variety of gnomes in different postures and with different occupations. There is even one sitting down playing a poker machine. We have tonnes of pictures of the little natives and it was enjoyable spotting them along the way.

One of the highlights was a panoramic painting (15m high by 114m long) of the battle of Racławice where a Polish force, including a peasant army, defeated the Russians (before being completely crushed 3 years later). Kosciuszko led the forces in his spare time after a busy schedule of having Australian mountains named after him. It was a really cool painting and put you in the middle of the action as it was 360 degrees and viewed from the centre.

Tomorrow we leave to witness (as the Lonely Planet describes) "Industrious wonders of Katowice." Well, my family as well, who I look forward to seeing.

How do you pronounce Wrocław?

Answer: Vrotz-wev

We can now add "that one" (sounds like ten) to our extensive all encompassing Polish vocabulary. Dobry!

Where Could We Be?

We went to a Greek restaurant with no lamb anywhere to be seen and the option of Pork Knuckle. Most sides included white cabbage salad. mmmm

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Feeling at home in Germany

In one sense, my brain has been in overload. In any one day my consciousness is sifting through all the bits and pieces of language that I know, in a manner something like this

...ok, just ask if they speak english, i think thats parlais vous englisch, oh, no thats french, i don't even know french. alamak (malaysian exclamation!)...She doesn't speak english, whats the word for pen? I can remember auf dem tisch is on the table, pen, pen...make a writing gesture instead...aaaargh!

In another sense, I felt very comfortable in Germany. Although my grasp of the language is piecemeal, when I heard it I felt like I could understand if I thought harder or heard it a bit slower.

I loved walking along the street and incidently saying "entschuldigung" and knowing that people thought I was German.

I loved lots of the food (although if I ever get or see anything like Dean's squishy pate like sausages from last night I will be extremely grossed out).

The towns felt open to me, like I could figure out where to go and what to do with ease.

I loved German shoes. And the kids wooden toys are awesome (yes we got some for Baby M)

I've been wondering about why this is. Is it that I learnt a bit of German at school, and that I heard lots about my Grandmas German cousin Rika, and about my Dad's childhood days in Germany...do I just feel at home due to a certain level of familiarity with the culture?

Or is it that Australia in general is more similar to Germany than somewhere like Italy or even Poland? (less Latin/Slavic, more Germanic?)

Pondering....

At last - a Snowman!

Well, a small snow creature.

Dean and I climbed to the top of the hill in Meissen today, to view the view. We had an enormous dom (german word for church) behind us, and a medieval town in front of us, on the river Elb.

And so we built snow creatures on the ledge. Before now it's been too cold!
Mine had stick hair and arms, his had a snout and looked a bit cheeky. Fun.

In other news, I managed to hold of from buying a fine porcelain set of Meissen ware. A tea set cost just 299 euro, the basic one that is! Meissen is the home of Europes oldest porcelain manufacterer, set up by none other than Augustus the Strong, elector of Saxony and King of Poland.

Apparently these days, the Russians look for golden guilt edging, the English buy pug dog figurines, the Americans pieces featuring the ming dragon, the Polish like the swan motif (Dean has been taking a lot of swan photos I note) and the Italians like to buy tureens. What is it that creates a national proclivity for certain images or shapes?

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Language

Travelling in Saxony, it seems if the person you ask a question of can't speak any English, they answer you in German anyway and you somehow get the gist of what you actually wanted to know.

Missed Out.

We arrived in Dresden on the 14th of Feburary. One day after the anniversary of the bombing of the city at the end of WWII. This meant historical revisionists demonstrating about a holocaust against Germany and a counter demonstration of people linking hands not wanting their city to turn into a symbol for extremists.

Dresden is pretty cool. It`s run down in parts and been reconstructed in others. It has a pretty laid back atmosphere. The recently renovated Aldtstatd has many overly ornate churches and palaces. Augustus the Strong essentially built Dresden up. Amoung other things such as pregnating women, he was Elector of Saxony and King of the Polish Lithuanian Commonwealth. He seems to have spent his other free time commissioning ornate buildings and purchasing over the top art works. I now know where all the Elephant tusks went after visiting his treasures in a Museum. This collection was way over the top with an Ivory room, a room of Bronzes, Porceline, Silver works and so on. This assault on the senses hurt my head after a while. The Irony was, it was the minimalist version as much had gone missing over the centuries and the bombings didn`t help either.

Dean

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Let It Be

An album full of great songs by a great band. Somehow, this produced an average album. A bit like today really. A great city: Berlin. Did a tour of a WWII bunker, saw a football match and went to a wander-classical concert where you walked around greenhouses listening to various performers. Somehow, an average day.

Probably due to a bit of travel weariness and the fact I traveled to the other side of the world to see my team draw. Come on Hertha!

As a side note, the bunker we visited only worked because it was 200m away from 8 big flak guns that allied bombers were smart enough to keep clear of.

Saturday, February 13, 2010

Feeling Old

All these younguns hanging out in our hostel making noise. What is the world coming to?

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

Preserving Memories

There are so many moments in any one day of travel that are precious. That you want to hold onto, whether they are of breathtaking beauty, wry comments, banality, funny stupid things you do, bad English, joyful reconnections...

Here are a few from the last week or so.

Ordering "additives" with our meal at the Ukrainian restaurant.

Standing in the gray snow, stamping our feet and watching our breath float away. Deciding to see if we could blow smoke rings.

Seeing Ellie's familiar face as she pulled up in her car.

Discovering that the boat we could see in the canal was frozen in place.

Clasping the bar of the chairlift in fright (with frozen fingers) when it jolted to a stop. Calming down enough to gaze over the alps and breathe the fresh air.

Staring up...at building facades, at unfamiliar clouds, at different wildlife.

Looking at the lily pads in the river and realising they were ice pads floating along.

Being told twice in the same day how to find the toilet by very friendly people. Was it the look on our faces? We weren't searching for toilets at the time!!

Reading the gospels afresh..Mark atm. Be alert...

Giggling with D about possible baby names...and testing them out via the 'shout method' in a restaurant...where it's v difficult to shout.

and more....but thats enough for now :)

crepe paper. gray.

Nope, not doing any craft.

After some thought, I realised that gray crepe paper was EXACTLY like what they have provided in this hostel for toilet paper.

hmmmm.

Indignation Is...

Sitting down to rest your feet, in a carefully chosen groovy little cafe. Having digested your mocha, and strawberry cream tart, you choose to head to the depths. A warm, non public public (eg railway station) toilet.

And find...

a squat toilet...

In Italy!

Horror!

Only In Poland

Restaraunt: Sphinx (think Chilli's or Lonestar type chain)
Style: Egyptian/Oriental/Eastern European Fusion.
Meal: Pork Schwarma served with french fries and cabbage sides.
Also available: The Sultans Feast featuring a pork cutlet... and cabbage.

They didn't serve this in Istanbul!

Danzig On Ice

According to the BBC weather report, it's supposed to be -15 to -20 in Gdansk. I must say I'm rather disappointed. I thought it would feel much colder. The city looks amazing with the old towers, spires and Burgher mansions. Part of the canal is frozen over which allows for a nice short cut to the other peninsular passing the ice fishermen and frozen boats.

We went to Westerplatte yesterday where the opening shots of World War II were fired. Today we went to the Solidarity museum and the gates of the Ship yards where the famous strikes occurred in 1980. Two pivotal moments in history. We also went to an Amber museum so Thora could see pretty things. I have to start saving for an Amber table.

Tomorrow we travel to Malbork to see Europes largest gothic castle which housed the Crusading order, the Teutonic Knights.

Dean

P.S Danzig was the old German name for Gdansk.

Declared

It has taken me a long time to conclude what has probably been known all along. Some of my prejudices started back in the 80's when I was rather young. There were certain things that I saw that were detestable. One was the whole glam rock thing which is why I'm shocked and disgusted by some of todays fashions. I was 7 and could tell it was in bad taste. Another item of disgust was the red Liverpool football club jerseys people would wear with Candy emblasoned across the chest. Other images that always irked me were that of the Italian national football teams or club powerhouses AC Milan and Juventus. You would see them in the Italian butcher, I mean Barber shops in Fairfield.

When I was 12, I discovered the wonderful game of football, that is Soccer for the uneducated. I came to support Manchester United who at that stage hadn't won the competition for 20 odd years. Being slightly obsessive, this meant I would have to support teams in the various other Leagues around Europe. Livingston in Scotland because it was my Nanna's maiden name, Marseilles (because of Cantona) in France, Athletico Bilbao in Spain because they were Basques, etc... When it came to Italy, I would never admit it but I kind of liked Inter Milan. Partly because they were't AC Milan or Juve' and also they had the same shirt manufacturer as Manchester United.

To cut a long story Short, I went to the San Siro twice to watch them play and even bought a scarf. Forza Inter!

Saturday, February 6, 2010

The Cloud of Turin

"hurry, hurry, hurry. We'll miss the train"

"I can't hurry, i don't want to...maybe we can just stay in milan today..."

"the train's still there, do you want to get on?"

"ok, ok..what about a ticket though?"

"we'll ask that guard"

(stilted conversation in italian english follows. upshot - we can buy our ticket on board for 5 euros extra. we catch the train)

Arriving in turin, I was still wondering why we'd decided to travel for 1.5 hours another day, when heavy snow was forecast and travellers fatigue had set in.

Then we stepped of the train. And walked into the station and saw one of the coolest shops I have ever seen in a railway station. Wallets and briefcases etc, arranged by colour, in a brightlit, warm looking glass cubicle. So...it might not be so bad after all.

We visited the tourist info spot, where the attendant actually spoke English. Bonus in Italy! We got a free map (another bonus for this country) detailing different walks we could take around the town. It was peppered with things we would "be able to say" after we'd completed a walk.

(walk # 1 history culture and coffee) "Haven't you ever been to turin? It has some marvellous buildings" A fine example of something we might slip into conversation upon our return!

We proceeded to walk around Turin, in the snow, but mercifully undercover for the most part because of the porticoes. (look up on google). The city was charming, sophisticated...despite clouds obscuring the distant views of mountains, despite the cold and slip factor, it worked it's magic.

The biggest Egyptian Museum outside Cairo, standing at a bar to have an espresso and chocolate, eating hot foccacia on a bar stool, gazing at a snow covered Augustus and standing deep in snow in a Roman ampitheatre. Cloudy. Bustling amongst the crowds, staring in shop windows, browsing the outdoor bookshops, stopping for cake, seeing bohemian italians with bongo drums. Still cloudy. Missing the train home but still having things to look at. Buying a pair of (bordeaux vino coloured) boots.

"are you glad we came to turin?"

"yeh it was a good day"

(topped of with waiting dinner - risotto milanese...yum!)

Driving around Milano

It hurts my head!

5 Cities, 4 Cafès, 3 Trains, 2 Buses, 1 Ferry

It doesn't sound like much of a day but it was actually quite enjoyable.

We started the day by waking up to realise the bus was leaving Ljubljana in 5 minutes. This meant a quick re-appraisal of the situation and I decided on catching a train to Sezàna near the Slovenian Italian border. This was despite not having any information about how to get between Sezàna and Trieste. In Sezàna, we met an Italian guy essentially doing the same journey as us who said there was a bus leaving in 45 minutes to Trieste. We had a coffee together in a cafè in city number 2.

In Trieste we walked around the city for a hour or two, had our lunch before deciding that since it was a nice sunny day, we should stop via Venice which we had visited 3 years earlier on a very gloomy day.

In Venice we caught a ferry around to San Marco square which took in the sights of the canals, bridges and beautiful old buildings, bathed in the late afternoon sun. We strolled around heading slowly back towards the railway station through what could also be described as the Worlds most expensive shopping mall. It was really picturesque but quite maze like. We ended up following equally lost German tourists and followed an older Italian Woman who spoke no English.

We then caught the train to Milan. In Milan, Mussolini built the railway station to impress which it did. Unfortunately, it was not designed for Australian travelers to be found by their Italian friends. After one hour of walking around with no phone credit and finding faulty pay phones, I finally made contact with our friend. I had to borrow a phone from a "City Angel" (a voulantary vigilanti security force)! We got there in the end and while it sounds like a contiki tour less the drunk 20 somethings, we actually had a fun day.

Tuesday, February 2, 2010

Slip Tally

4. Yes, 4 slips in 2 weeks. Let's hope the tally slows down.

#1 Gallipoli Museum - T slides on the icy hill on the way back to the bus. People came running. Babys first war wound...

#2 Turkish dance floor - D slips over as he is forced to caper by the turkish dancer in one of those tacky tourist shows. He received a gasp from the crowd.

#3 Goreme rock camel - D runs enthusiasticly down a muddy hill and slides. He does not count this as he managed to stop himself from falling completely. But there was mud on his hands!

#4 Tivoli Park snowy path - T watches a kid sledding, loses concentration and finds herself lying in the snow, laughing.

An Addition to the list of Worlds Best Places

As you would be well aware, the three greatest locations in the world are universally regarded as: Kogarah Oval, Krakow's old town market square and Berlin's Olympic Stadion. Well I can tell you that I have found another place worthy of being added to that list. It's name is Pamukkale.

The place is a hill top strewn with the ruins of the ancient city Hierapolis (a city mentioned at the end of Colossians). These ruins are actually proper ruins unlike some rebuilds. There are just stones and bricks thrown about haphazardly while some of the larger buildings remain, like the awe inspiring Roman Ampitheater which sits perched high on the hill. By the way, this hill is a mountain by Australian standards.

When we visited (all to briefly), it was a sunny day with a slightly crisp breeze. The grass was green and we bathed in the warm winter sun. We even finished the day with ice blocks. We were fortunate enough to get in early as in a very Turkish style, the shop keeper strangely stopped selling the cheap ones a few minutes later as a few others on our tour found out. Hmmm?

While I was facinated by the ruins, the natural wonder of the white sedimentry terraces with their thermal waters made this place worthy of being mentioned in the same breath as Kogarah Oval. The place just looked surreal. We walked along some of the Terraces between the pools of water with our winter woolies and bare feet. We got to feel the cool waters and sediment between our toes. I'd seen pictures of this place before on the walls of Kebab shops, but to actually experience it in the flesh surpassed the realms of my imagination.

If you want to see what I'm talking about: book a trip, wait for us to show you the photos, make a trip to the Kebab shop on Beecroft Road Epping or for the tech savy, google it.

Not so Great is Artemis of the Ephesians

What used to be one of the wonders of the world, is now a field with a few stones lying around and a gaggle of geese. We got to walk down the streets where the Apostle Paul walked and help kick start a riot. Awesome.

A Lesson for Would Be Turkish Drivers

Rule 1: The marker lines on the road indicate where your vehicle should be, a bit like a railway line.

Rule 2: Drive on the righthand side of the road, or the lefthand side for that matter. It's your choice.

Rule 3: You can park anywhere. Tight one lane roads, the side of the freeway, intersections, just as long as you can get your car there.

Rule 4: Go means Go and Stop means Go

Rule 5: Honk at anyone doing the above.

Wednesday, January 27, 2010

kavarna

Kavarna is the Slovene word for coffee house. Having once been part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire I guess Slovenia borrowed their coffee house tradition from the Austrians.

Coffee houses are amazing! We had a `local` near our hostel ın Ljubljana, which looked like a chic bar that might be found in the likes of surry hills. The first night there İ counted 21 different types of cake, and 15 petit fours. All dısplayed in a long glass case, gloriously tantalisıng. What to choose?

A soft, smooth piece of yoghurt cake wıth berries, and a piece of vanilla cream pie with glazed fruit on top. Served as they are, wıthout annoying garnishes of sauce to spoil the flavour. yum yum. Served with tea, the wonder drink in Slovenia: they had a seperate tea menu.

Another drink found in Slovenia: vroca cokolade. Translation: hot chocolate. But not as we know it. And not as I have previously described lithuanian hot chocolate. It is basically a cup full of thick syrupy chocolatey pudding. Good...once every other month.

Also, when we return, watch out for D waxing lyrical on the wonders of Slovenian wine.

İn 3 words

Our journey from İstanbul to Gallıpolı usıng three word descrıptors. A bus travel game...

fıelds of ıce. mad snow caperıng. bleary eyed travellers. ınsane turkısh drıvers. ımprısoned by gray. sun ıllumınates colour. vıllas standıng starkly. ocean slopıng away. dean eats delıght. puffs of cloud. pregnant belly flutters. mınarets pıercıng heaven. boats floatıng softly. dıstant hılls beckon. a cıty street. more ındecıpherable roadsıgns. glary, sunny, shımmerıng. three smokıng chımneys. turkısh apple tea. hot cheese gozleme. aegean sea looms. spındly trees abound. mınus 2 degrees! ın marshmallow hılls. a lıttle doze. chıp packets crackle. the vıolın soars. goat escapes collısıon. fınally...we arrıve!

(forgıve the turkısh ı - ıt`s ın our normal spot for i and ı can`t be bothered fıxıng...thınk of ıt as another remınder that we are somewhere foreıgn!)

Saturday, January 23, 2010

Informator

What would you do if you were greeted by someone wearing this name tag?

ciciban marsh?

Ciciban is a little boy who is always in a scrape of one kind or another. He tears the knees of his pants, bruises his elbow and plays mischievous pranks.

One day a bee comes looking for Ciciban, to sting him. He looks and looks but Ciciban is nowhere to be found. He eventually forgets why he is even looking for Ciciban, but still asks Ciciban's mother where he is. She asks 'why are you looking for him', and the bee says he's not sure but it might be because he has done something naughty. The mother says 'ask Ciciban, He always tells the truth'. To which the bee replies 'oh, well I don't need to sting him then - any boy who always tells the truth is a good boy'.

So, thats a little boys own story from a very popular Slovenian boys magazine. Ciciban is pronounced more like tzitzibarn (think tzatziki). Last night we heard this story set to some Slovenian chamber music at the Slovenian Philharmonic Centre. A la Peter and the Wolf.

So, do you think Ciciban is a contender if we have a boy?

Friday, January 22, 2010

snow

makes icicles on trees that stay there and make them look all pretty and white

Accidental Lonely Planet Tour

In our last episode, we were excitingly hanging around a suburban internet Cafe in Vienna. Tonights episode comes from our hostel in Ljubljana.

We finally boarded our train for Maribor and arrived fairly latish in the city, having heard from the German-Croat in our carriage about how strange Slovenians are.

Maribor was a nice small city nestled near mountains and vineyards. In the morning we did a tour of the castle which was more of a palace. Due to the massive influx of tourists, one of the currators had to turn the lights and heaters on for us in each exibihition. The most interesting fact learned was that the castle was fortified due to the ˝thread of the Turks.˝ Hopefully in Turkey we will discover why Turkish thread required fortifying a castle. After this we wandered around the park and the old town in the city.

Maribor is home to the worlds oldest vine (still producing grapes) and one of the largest under ground cellars. I must say that the Slovenian wine tasted fantastic. We will surely share a bottle or two with our Italian friends when we get to Milan.

Our second day in Maribor was our day of outdoor adventure. We went to a mountain called Pohorje. To get there, we caught a suburban bus in the morning and caught a cable car up to the top. I went snow boarding while Thora sat in cafes and got a massage. The ski field was essentially one main run with a few shorter tributories. Having said that, it was a fairly long run with a few rather steep sections. On one of these sections there is an annual womens world cup ski event (The Golden Fox) so the mountain has a bit more street cred then Perisher. I certainly enjoyed myself.

After the event, we found out that we did exactly what the Lonely Planet guide recommended for Maribor. Maybe we should become travel advisors?

One of the reasons for travelling to Maribor was to catch up with a family of missionaries supported by our church. We spent a bit of time with Kingsley, Roni (Veronica) and their children Zachary, Sammuel, Timothy and baby Sophie. We had dinner with them a couple of times and walked around town with Roni and Timothy. It was interesting to see how they operated in a foriegn country with differences of culture and language. Did you know Slovenians have a morbid fear of exposing wet hair to cold weather? Tea is also the cure for nearly anything. Their work seems to be quite hard in terms of both working within the church which they belong to in Maribor and in reaching the lost. It was a bit of an eye opener for us and we will continue to pray for their work.

I´ve mentioned before that Slovenian wine is rather nice. Their beer is nothing amazing but thatś Ok as Germany and Poland are well placed on the itinary. Cake seems to be readily available at reasonable prices and is absolutely delicious. Our resident food critic Thora will no doubt fill you in on this culinary delight. This goes well with the porrige thick hot chocolate readily available. We have also been enjoying a lot of bread and bakery products.

Reports on Ljublana and Bled coming shortly.

Dean

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

The future is here

What can one say about Dubai? It looks like the place where they build something because they can. It also seems that every imbecile rich person in the world has backed them. World´s largest tower, a new metro system straight out of Gotham, over the top expensive hotels not to mention they built some artificial islands off the coast in the shape of a palm tree with 8million dollar 2 bedroom apartments. On the way out we saw another one being built. It was certainly an intersting short stay.

As for our flights, I think getting the stop over was quite handy as now in Vienna, I don't feel Jet lagged. It was nasty getting up at 3 though in Sydney. Full thanks to Matt for being crazy enough to drive us.

Here are my in flight movie reviews

Transformers: 2, revenge of the fallen 1 star. Absolute rubbish.
Bullit: 3 and a half stars. Would have been two and a half stars (average) except it a had Steve McQueen and an awesome car chase scene.
Ice Age 3: 2 and a half stars, funny yet lost marks for the absurd situation of having a tropical sub terranian land of dinosaurs beneath an Ice shealth inhabbited by mamoths and sloths.
The Caste: 3 stars. Still pretty funny though there were a few international changes to the version we saw.

Any way, we are now in Vienna where we swapped snow for sand. It's currently 2 degrees and we are about to hop on the train to Maribor in Slovenia. For those who may think Vienna deserves more then catching a couple of S bahn trains and eating Kebabs at the bahnhoff, don't worry, we spend 3 days here on the way back.

Talk to you soon from Maribor

Construction and Mirrors

We spent an evening in Dubai, and the overall impression is of a place in flux. Everywhere there were tall mirrored skyscrapers surrounded by building sites. Of course there was also a 5 star hotel every 100m.

How did I know I was in Dubai and not some other random airport? Well apart from the chrome plated citrus airport that looked like a modern version of a Roman temple, it was the man in the flowing white robes, with a flowing white cloth on his head calmly holding up his hand and walking in front of the bus expecting it to stop.

Suprising thing about Dubai? Dean had his haircut by a Phillipino man, our tour guide was Pakistani and the bus driver was from Bandladesh. I didn't realise it would be such a multinational city. I think people go there to get rich or to serve the rich...including the royal family. The king had his face plastered all over everything, including prominent billboards on the highway.

We visited a gold souk (market), and I lost count of the number of times we were asked if we wanted a 'copy watch' followed by a list 'TAG, Longines, Rolex etc' and if we declined the watch it was 'we have bag as well, luis vuitton'. NO! The best thing about the market, apart from the amazing display of ostentatious yellow gold, were the spice shops. We only went into one, but we tried about 5 different pistachio flavours! Including lemon, cinnamon and extra salty - as if pistachios aren't salty enough! I wanted D to try and bargain for our bag of nuts, but he just offered 10 units (canät remember currency name!) and we walked out. I watched one lady walk out in faux disgust, and the guy then chucked his little serving trowel before they agreed on a price. Fun!

Then we saw the stock sitting on the dock of Dubai Creek waiting to be exported. Looked like a scene from the 1920's. Covered haphazardly in tarpaulins, in poor excuses for boxes, it made us wonder about the quality of our pistachios and their storage pre shop days...

next stop MAribor.

WE started reading the New Testament. Both still about Matthew 4...only 27 and 3/4 books to go. I'm getting excited - finally - about all of it. Looking forward to sharing more exploits.

T

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Last minute

Today we went to a wedding. Not so great on the day you need to be running around doing odd jobs. But great because it really reminded us of our great God and his love for us. So much fun to see one of my old youth group girls getting married! And one of my old youth group boys (harry potter!) is arriving soon. He is going to stay over and drive us to the airport. What a gem. I'm not sure if I could be that selfless for someone - 3am is an insane time...

We went to the city and bought antiseptic hand wash stuff - has anyone ever used that? I've never cared before, but supposedly with a baby you need to be extra careful. We got other random toiletries and we bought...our plane books.

I got 'The Book Thief' by Marcus Zusak, and D got 'Captain of Rome' by someone. Will let you know how they go. I love buying new books! THe only thing is you want to keep them...and we are already out of bookshelf space. Plus I will finish it in the first leg of the trip, and then have to carry it around Europe. How do you read your books? I always start by reading the back cover, then I read all the commendations, the publication page and the dedications. I also read the recommendations at the end for other peoples books. Kind of like sucking it dry...before I even begin. Then I just go full speed ahead. I don't really stop, nor do I savour a passage unless it's really really good. Or totally incomprehensible. Might have to be a bit more circumspect with my travel reading...

Ok, we are about to get 4.5 hours sleep. It has just dawned on me - we will be on a plane for 16 hours. ewwwwwww.

Next post from europe!

Thursday, January 14, 2010

the dark side of travelling when pregnant...

Lest you think that I will be swanning around the world without a care, let me correct you.

While I can finally graduate to a bag with wheels (yes!) and D will have to carry things (yes!) and really will face no stress (except perhaps of the snowed in variety?!?!) there will be something to care deeply about.

That something, coming in at $115, is the pair of compression stocking I was advised to buy for wearing during flights. Yes, full length compression stockings. When I tried them on yesterday, I could only get them halfway over my feet. I then lay on my back like a beetle trying to pull them up but to no avail. I had to call D to assist me.

We will be going on 9 flights - that's 9 instances of being compressed and unable to dress myself!

Phew.

Monday, January 11, 2010

Immunised Proper

The final plans have been laid. Three hostels still to book, all train times found and all flights booked. Checks have been made and unfortunately I've got Thora down as a Herr and not a Frau on one of our budget flights. Ohh well. I figured out budget airlines don't want to talk to you unless you pay them. They also have the knack of advertising a ticket for 11 euros, which ends up costing 50 with taxes, surcharges and breathing fees, followed by yet another 10 euro charge thrown in at step 6 because I don't have some special credit card. Apart from the frustrations of trying to figure out about bus travel in Poland, and the endless amount of useless internet sites advertising bus timetables and routes which are just a portals for another completely irrelevant site, all is going well.

We have had our shots, and for extra protection while we are away, I came down with a cold which will be referred to as Claytons Swine Flu. I got the Swine flu jab last week and came down with a massive cold on the weekend. Being sick and physically drained gave me the chance to do some organising, though I was going a bit nuts about being cooped up for 3 days. Thanks to Claytons Swine Flu, the Flu you have when you are immunised against the flu, I will be fully immune (I hope).

Six and half sleeps to go. How good it will be to catch the plane that usually wakes me up on a Sunday morning. Ahh Stanmore.

Dean

Saturday, January 9, 2010

1 week to go

Next Sunday we board the Emirates flight to Vienna.

We still have to take down the Christmas tree, and sort out the baby room. We still have to see 6 million people and go to a wedding. I still want to write my postcard address list. We still have to photocopy the itinerary and distribute to concerned relatives.

We still have a lot to do!

We are excited though!

Tickets are booked, passports are ready, accommodation is booked, and soon we will find ourselves knee deep in snow, and experiencing the bitter cold of European winter. Marvellous!

Our trip is for 7 weeks, and spans (mostly) Eastern Europe. We hope to keep you entertained with our tales of travellers glee and woe...We will be visiting Slovenia, Turkey, Italy, Germany, Poland, Hungary and Austria.

Stay tuned...